
Along the PB boardwalk and the streets stacked tightly toward Crystal Pier, salt spray and constant foot traffic wear Ipe decking down fast.
Nothing here was replaced. Each of these decks is the original Ipe, cleaned, abraded flat and re-oiled in place. See more on our full project gallery.








Pacific Beach is one of San Diego's densest beach communities, with rooftop decks, front patios, and rental units packed tightly between the boardwalk and Mission Boulevard. Ipe decking here does double duty as both a design feature and a heavily used gathering space, whether it's a rooftop deck catching sunset views near Crystal Pier or a front patio just steps from the sand. My Teak Pro restores these decks to handle both the constant salt air and the wear that comes with PB's high volume of foot traffic.
Many Pacific Beach properties operate as short-term or vacation rentals, meaning decks see turnover-level cleaning schedules and heavier guest traffic than a typical single-family home, which accelerates wear on stair treads and railings especially.
We're the same veteran-owned crew behind Pacific Beach teak restoration and outdoor furniture refinishing. Browse recent projects in our project gallery or request a free estimate for your Pacific Beach Ipe deck.
Restoring salt-worn, heavily trafficked Ipe means sanding out both the UV graying and the surface scuffing from constant use, then resealing with oil that holds up under repeated exposure to salt mist. For rental properties, a freshly restored deck also photographs well for listings and holds up better against the wear that comes with frequent guest turnover.
Eroded early wood leaves a fibrous surface that catches skin. Abrading it flat is the single biggest comfort change.
A saturated finish keeps Pacific Beach rain and irrigation spray sitting on top of the boards instead of soaking into end grain.
Brightening pulls the tannin and iron staining out so replacement boards and originals read as one deck.
Once the surface is sound, staying ahead of it is a maintenance coat rather than a full restoration.
You do not need much, and the cheap items matter more than the expensive ones.
Not wire. Along the grain, weekly. This is the single highest-value maintenance habit.
Diluted, with dwell time. Nothing caustic and nothing containing chlorine bleach.
Non-metallic feet under every leg. They prevent both the iron staining and the wear rings.
We leave you the spec. Spot-treating a high-wear lane at six months delays the whole refinish.
Cheap, and it takes the guesswork out of deciding whether the deck is dry enough to coat.
We measure the deck, photograph problem areas, test moisture in a few boards and agree the scope in writing before anyone starts.
Cupped, split or fastener-damaged boards get flipped, re-fixed or swapped first. Sanding a deck with loose boards only hides the issue.
Old film finishes and mill glaze come off chemically where sanding alone would gouge the surface, then the wood is neutralized and rinsed.
Coarse to fine in stages, with hand work along railings, stair noses and anywhere a machine cannot reach flat.
Oil goes on wet-on-wet until the boards stop drinking, then the excess is wiped back so nothing sits on the surface to go sticky.
We stay off the deck through the cure window, return to buff any raised spots, and leave you a written care schedule.



Before calling anyone, these three checks will tell you most of what a Pacific Beach estimator would.
Pour it on the most exposed board. Beads and sits: fine. Soaks and darkens: book.
Run a hand along the grain. Chalky residue on your palm is oxidised fibre coming away.
Compare an exposed face to a board end under the rail. That colour gap is exactly what you have lost.
Sourcing, milling and swapping damaged Ipe so the repair disappears into the run instead of announcing itself.
Handrails, cable rail posts and stair treads take the most contact and weather differently from the field boards.
Rust halos around fasteners, planter rings, barbecue grease and sunscreen shadow all come out with the right chemistry.
Chlorine splash-out and constant wet traffic need a finish specified differently from a dry upper terrace.
A fast turnaround package for listings — clean, light sand and a single saturating coat before photography.
Access-limited work with hand tools and containment, common on multi-level and HOA properties.
"Our Ipe deck had turned completely silver-gray from Pacific Beach sun and marine air. My Teak Pro brought it back to a rich chocolate finish — it looks brand new."
"They sanded, brightened and oiled our entire back deck in three days. Professional, veteran-owned, and truly museum-grade workmanship."
"We manage several oceanfront properties in Pacific Beach and My Teak Pro is the only crew we trust with Ipe. Consistent finish, on-time, spotless cleanup."
Our crews run out to the neighbouring towns around Pacific Beach on the same schedule, so a shared crew day often means a better slot for you.
Silvering is a UV reaction at the surface of the wood. It is not rot, and it is not permanent.
Read guideBoth are preparation methods with different jobs. Choosing wrong either wastes wood or leaves contamination behind.
Read guideGrey teak is almost always surface oxidation, not damage. Here is the full sequence used to bring it back, and the points where the job usually goes wrong.
Read guide
No call centre and no sales visit — you speak to the restorer who will be on your deck.
Send a photo with your details. We can usually tell you whether it is a recoat or a full refinish before we visit.