
La Jolla's dramatic bluffs and cove-front homes give Ipe decking some of the most striking views in San Diego County, along with some of the harshest reflected sun exposure.
Coastal terraces, pool surrounds, roof decks and stairs — different exposures, the same preparation-first method. See more on our full project gallery.








Properties perched above La Jolla Cove or along the bluffs get near-constant reflected UV bouncing off the Pacific in addition to direct overhead sun, which is a more intense combination than most inland San Diego decks experience. Hillside view decks set back from the immediate coastline see less spray but still take strong afternoon light for much of the year.
Bluff-top decks in La Jolla often face wind funneling up from the coves below, which can drive fine salt mist onto railings and boards even on homes set well back from the water's edge.
We're the same veteran-owned crew behind La Jolla teak restoration and outdoor furniture refinishing. Browse recent projects in our project gallery or request a free estimate for your La Jolla Ipe deck.
Ipe's density holds up well under La Jolla's UV load even after the surface has grayed, so sanding and reoiling typically brings back the wood's color and grain without the cost or waste of demolition, which also matters on bluff-top lots where construction access and coastal permitting can complicate a full deck replacement.
Eroded early wood leaves a fibrous surface that catches skin. Abrading it flat is the single biggest comfort change.
A saturated finish keeps La Jolla rain and irrigation spray sitting on top of the boards instead of soaking into end grain.
Brightening pulls the tannin and iron staining out so replacement boards and originals read as one deck.
Once the surface is sound, staying ahead of it is a maintenance coat rather than a full restoration.
You do not need much, and the cheap items matter more than the expensive ones.
Not wire. Along the grain, weekly. This is the single highest-value maintenance habit.
Diluted, with dwell time. Nothing caustic and nothing containing chlorine bleach.
Non-metallic feet under every leg. They prevent both the iron staining and the wear rings.
We leave you the spec. Spot-treating a high-wear lane at six months delays the whole refinish.
Cheap, and it takes the guesswork out of deciding whether the deck is dry enough to coat.
We measure the deck, photograph problem areas, test moisture in a few boards and agree the scope in writing before anyone starts.
Cupped, split or fastener-damaged boards get flipped, re-fixed or swapped first. Sanding a deck with loose boards only hides the issue.
Old film finishes and mill glaze come off chemically where sanding alone would gouge the surface, then the wood is neutralized and rinsed.
Coarse to fine in stages, with hand work along railings, stair noses and anywhere a machine cannot reach flat.
Oil goes on wet-on-wet until the boards stop drinking, then the excess is wiped back so nothing sits on the surface to go sticky.
We stay off the deck through the cure window, return to buff any raised spots, and leave you a written care schedule.



Greying can wait. These cannot, because the cost of fixing them climbs with every season.
Hairline splits collect water and dirt and deepen. Sealed early they stay cosmetic.
A low spot or blocked gap means water sits. That is where the substructure gets attacked, not the Ipe.
They snag, they stain and eventually they split the board they were meant to hold.
A ventilation problem underneath. Sanding it flat without fixing the cause just buys a year.
Constant salt load and no shade. These need the shortest interval and the toughest finish spec.
Shaded, slow to dry, and where mildew rather than UV is the main problem to solve.
Wet, high-traffic and safety-critical. Slip resistance drives the finish choice here.
Vertical Ipe weathers unevenly top to bottom and needs blending rather than a straight recoat.
Heat, grease and food spills, so we specify a finish that cleans up rather than one that only looks good day one.
Benches, planters and built-in seating restored alongside the deck so the whole space matches.
"Our Ipe deck had turned completely silver-gray from La Jolla sun and marine air. My Teak Pro brought it back to a rich chocolate finish — it looks brand new."
"They sanded, brightened and oiled our entire back deck in three days. Professional, veteran-owned, and truly museum-grade workmanship."
"We manage several oceanfront properties in La Jolla and My Teak Pro is the only crew we trust with Ipe. Consistent finish, on-time, spotless cleanup."
Our crews run out to the neighbouring towns around La Jolla on the same schedule, so a shared crew day often means a better slot for you.
Near the ocean, three separate forces act on outdoor wood at once. Understanding which one is doing the damage changes how you maintain it.
Read guideGrey teak is almost always surface oxidation, not damage. Here is the full sequence used to bring it back, and the points where the job usually goes wrong.
Read guideOils look richer and want more attention. Sealers hold longer and read more uniform. The right answer depends on exposure and on how often you want to think about it.
Read guide
Spring and early autumn book out first. A short call now usually means a better slot.
Square footage, condition notes and a fixed price — sent in writing, usually the day after we visit.